Way back in time before the onset of adulthood I enjoyed countless days heading into the hills of Yorkshire with nothing more than a squashed sandwich & youthful sense for adventure!
Despite long past youthful and work commitments keeping me in the city, the sense of adventure and love for the outdoors never left me. After digging my boots out and returning to the hills I attended a number of courses to improve my hill knowledge and skill base, during one of these courses it was suggested I join the Mountain Leader Training scheme and was delighted go on to gain the MOUNTAIN LEADER Award in April 2012.
As well as spending time on the hills and mountains of the UK I have also enjoyed trips to the Nepalese Himalaya, Swiss & French Alps, Mallorca’s Tramuntana, Andorran & French Pyrenees, Morocco’s High Atlas, Tanzania’s Mt Meru & Kilimanjaro, Argentinian & Chilean Patagonia and winter expeditions to Norway’s Hardangervidda.
Since gaining the ML I have also gained the SINGLE PITCH AWARD, INTERNATIONAL MOUNTAIN LEADER AWARD and the WINTER MOUNTAIN LEADER AWARD. I am now enjoying working in a freelance role whilst trying to get out climbing as much as possible.
After yesterday's trip to City Bloc in Hunslet, Leeds yesterday, with Eszter and Loren, I made another visit today with the eager Loren and Daisy who was keen to refresh her climbing skills which she had learnt a few years ago but had not climbed for a little while.
After a short warm up both ladies picked problems they wanted to try which got steadily harder in difficulty as their confidence grew and they started using more movements and techniques.
Both ladies wanted to push themselves with Loren being noticeably more comfortable climbing to the full height of some of the problems whilst Daisy showed real determination when repeatedly attempting problems until she had completed them and not being afraid to take a fall onto the floor matts when pushing herself.
I even managed to complete a few routes which Had beaten me previously until I pushed it too far repeatedly attempting a frustrating route and managing to give myself a bit of an elbow strain, it's not easy at my age! 😢
A mid August Sunday and obviously it was lashing down with rain as Britain caught the back end of tropical storm Bertha, so a perfect day for a bit of time indoor bouldering.
By coincidence or possibly by the amount of things I post to social media when I have been out there have been a fair few people who have asked about getting into climbing, both indoor and out so I took the opportunity to introduce Eszta and Loren to the City Bloc bouldering wall in Hunslet, Leeds.
We started off with a quick look and explanation of the route gradings and colouring associated with each grade before quickly getting the ladies moving on a traverse across a wall to look at the movements needed and the use of hands and feet on the different types of holds.
We then moved on to starting a circuit of routes with them each encouraging each other and giving advice. It wasn't long before they wanted to move onto a routes a little harder and explored routes on the over hang sections too.
This week I have been fortunate enough to spend a few days enjoying the fine weather in the English Lake District working for Lupine Adventure with young adults on the National Citizen Service scheme.
Based at Langdale YHA I have been working with Ben, Siobhan and Matt (Trekking Skills) as well as instructors from Carnegie Outdoor.
Taking groups of 12-14 plus 2 team leaders we made the best of the summer weather and headed out from the YHA onto the surrounding hills.
Tuesday and Wednesday we made our way around Loughrigg Fell to look at the caves that had been formed when miners had dug out the clay stone, quite a sight when considering the fact the mining had mainly done by hand!
From the caves we made our way up the steep incline of Nab Scar and onto Heron Pike, standing at 612m above sea level this was the first time most of the group had stood on top of an official mountain and had views of the surrounding fells and Grasmere too!
Thursday and with the skies bright and the temperature set to be higher we set out on a route with less up hill but with a little scrambling to spice things up and give the group a sense of achievement. Heading for Silver Howe we gave the group the lead by letting them choose the route before dropping back down into Grasmere for well earned ice cream, all very Enid Blyton!
With the rare opportunity of a few days available to spend on the hills I joined up with Matt Dawson of Trekking Skills to grab some precious Winter Mountain Leader & International Mountain Leader Award log book days.
Following on from our recent IML Winter training week spent on snow shoes in France we headed to the Lochnagar region of Scotlands Cairngorm mountains where we could again put the snowshoes to use.
After a much later than planned arrival in the Lochangar region due to a mechanical breakdown we headed to the bothy at Callater Lodge where we arrived at approx 4am!
Beginning our walk to the bothy in the early hours!
With a full moon in a partially cloudy sky we walked without head torches until we reached the bothy at approx 4am.
Matt gets ready for a spot of well needed shut eye!
After a few hours sleep we had breakfast and packed up our kit, the rucksacks were heavier than we would have liked but we had to carry food and cooking equipment, plus sleeping bags and bivi's as well as all the usual extra kit that should be carried for winter conditions. The weather hadn't lived up to the bright forecast and cloud hung around 700m on the sides of the Glen and as we made our way up 'Carn an t-Sagairt Mor' we were soon hit by strong winds, driven snow and low visibility. From here on it was snow goggles on and head down looking at the compass, visibility was now minimal and it was impossible to see the difference between the white of the low cloud and the snow laying on the ground - white out conditions!
Matt navigates through continuous white out.
Discussing our options we opted to alter our original plan of walking to the summit of Lochnagar as there would nothing to see but the inside of a cloud and our time would be better spent navigating our way to the 'Lunkard Bothy'. Previously planned objectives often have to change as conditions on the ground develop in my opinion.
Using features in the terrain along with compass bearings and pacing we walked on to 'Broad Cairn' before deciding to head in a southerly direction to intersect with 'Jock's Road' which we would then follow to the bothy, of course 'Jock's Road' would be under the snow pack so we would be relying on our navigational skills.
It was during this leg that I experienced a sense of complete disorientation! Whilst following only the compass bearing and with no visible reference points I began to think I was walking in a circle and began to feel dizzy and sick, I would liken it the feeling of the room spinning when drunk (so i'm told). I had to ignore what my senses were telling me and believe in what my compass was showing me, though I could also have followed the sound of Matt's stifled laughter at my confusion!!
We continued as darkness descended, though this made little difference as we had seen nothing but a few metre's in front of us all day, until we found the 'Lunkard Bothy'.
We could of easily missed the bothy as it is dug into the hillside and not the tallest of structures, it was also fairly well covered in snow.
That'll be the bothy under there!
Not exactly what we were hoping for when we found the bothy with only the top 8inch of the door showing above the snow, we broke out the shovels unaware that worse was to come!
It seems there a 'bit' of snow may have got in!
After digging away the snow that was blocking the door we opened it to be greeted by a wall of snow inside! We had to tunnel nearly 2metres until we broke through into the bothy, which was grim to say the least!
Matt tunneling into the bothy!
After eventually getting into the bothy we quickly got the stoves going to make some well needed nourishment before setting up our sleeping bags and bivi's for the night in our 'basic' accommodation.
I didn't see this in the brochure.
Getting out of a warm sleeping bag into the cold interior of a winter shelter is not the most enjoyable experience but we were keen to get out of the cold, damp bothy/snow shelter and get moving. Quickly making breakfast whilst packing up our kit we were soon ready for the off and decided make our way back towards 'Glen Clunie' around the hills to the South of 'Loch Callater'.
A second day of navigation without visual references, bonus!
The view we had for the best part of 2 full days.
As we ascended from the bothy we were soon in familiar 'white out' conditions and again had to rely on our compass bearings and contour interpretation as we made our way to 'Carn an Tuirc' before descending down to Lochcallater Lodge.
Matt pleased to be back at Loch Callater.
Summary - We had an idea of what we wanted to do over the couple of days before we set out but were both happy to change the plan as we assessed the changing conditions and I believe we made the best of it by using the 'white out' to our advantage to practice our navigation skills in challenging conditions that we could easily encounter at any time whilst out on the hills in winter.
The last day of June and I returned to Snowdonia to help Tracy complete her first ever mountain route as she prepares to undertake the 'National 3 Peaks' later in the year.
Tracy hadn't walked in the mountains before so was slightly concerned to see mud under foot!
In an out of character charitable moment of madness I had mentioned to Tracy that I would help her as she prepares to undertake the National 3 Peaks later in the year. Having made, what I think, is a late start to her program due to Tracy's frequent overseas and weekend commitments I decided to get straight into it with a trip up Snowdon via the Watkin Path.
We would be joined on the day by Ali who, having returned from trekking and summiting Kilimanjaro a week earlier, was keen to stretch her mountain legs again.
On the Watkin Path below the cloud base.
The route to Snowdon summit would take us around 3hrs to cover the 4miles and 940m of ascent and the path is regarded as one of the most demanding routes available to walkers, it does rise steeply and passes over large areas of scree and so care does need to be taken in places.
Onward to the cloud!
Watkin Path was named after a railway entrepreneur and MP Sir Edward Watkin who retired to to live in a chalet in Cwm Llan at the foot of Snowdon. A path already ran from South Snowdon Slate Quarry through Cwm Llan and Watkin extended this path to run from the quarry to the summit. It was the first designated footpath in Britain!
Prime Minister William Gladstone at the time officially opened the path in 1892 when he addressed a crowd of 2000 people from a rock at the side of the path which became known as the Gladstone Rock.
Ladies day continues as the ascent grows steeper.
Arriving in Snowdonia at 07:30hrs we parked up along the A498 at the foot of the Watkin Path. Making our way through the wooded area at the start of the route we were soon rising steadily and reached the new works constructing a hydro electrical facility in Alon Cwm Llan, the stream that runs with some force from Cwm Llyn.
The path continued to rise steadily until we reached the derelict former mine buildings. It then takes a turn for the much steeper as it rises through old discarded slate mounds. This seemed to slow Tracy down a little from the pace she had set, thankfully!
Heading up the path turned to scree where care was needed as we reached first Bwich Ciliau, then Bwich Saethau and finally the Snowdon Visitor center. On the route we had met a few people, most notably a couple of young lads who had camped near the summit and endured a long, wet, windy night!
Approaching Snowdon Visitor Center
Some people look at you daft when you say there is a cafe, toilet & railway platform at the summit of Snowdon, others then expect facilities at the summit of all mountains! There are many different opinions on having such a building at the top of a mountain, I'm of the opinion that it gives people who wouldn't normally visit the summit of one of Britain's mountains the chance to get a small sample of what those that walk the hills enjoy. There are hundreds of other mountains that have nothing other than a pile of stones at the summit so a few tourists visiting Snowdon by train can't be too bad can it?
On Snowdon summit.
Can be a busy place Snowdon summit!
After the compulsory walk up to the summit point and photo we had a break in the cafe where lots of day trippers and foreign tourists were looking out of the windows at the expansive views of the inside of a cloud! Making use of the facilities and having a luxury hot chocolate we listened to the dulcet tones of the friendly train conductor as he gently called his passengers for the return trip down the mountain before we set out again.
Rather than simply retrace our steps we would make the route a circuit by heading along the small ridge of Bwilch Main and descend into Cwm Llan.
Tracy fails at Hide & Seek!
The cloud base had by now started to lift and the wind started to drop, which was nice!
Dropping into Cwm Llan.
Girl talk!
After a short walk along the ridge we had soon dropped into Cwm Llan and were making our way carefully through the wet marshy ground back to the Watkin Path.
Scree down into into Cwm Llyn.
Looking back up toward Cwm Tregalan.
Back on the Watkin Path at the ground works we followed the track back down past the waterfall and through the wood back to the cars. The route took us under 6hrs and was enjoyed by all (I was led to believe!). It gave Tracy an insight as to areas she would have to look at as she gets ready for the National 3 Peaks, it gave Ali a chance to stretch her legs on the hills and it gave me a chance to try stay awake for 36hrs having worked the night before and working the night after!
After our acclimatisation route to the summit of Mt Meru (4566m) myself, Commander Rob, Lord Martin Cocks of Cocksville, Barry (George Clooney's Dad!), Vic, Paul, Blister Steve & Andy headed back to Weru Weru for a good meal, a couple of well earned local beers and a nights rest before we would go on to Kilimanjaro!
Kilimanjaro - The worlds tallest free standing mountain.
Kilimanjaro is a dormant volcano and has three volcanic cones, Kibo, Mawenzi and Shira. The summit is at Uhuru/Kibo Peak and stands 5,895 metres above sea level. Located in Tanzania it is the highest mountain in Africa & the worlds highest free standing mountain!
Initially I wasn't at all attracted to attempting Kilimanjaro, this was mainly due to the mountain losing some credibility as a serious challenge after having a bunch of unfit & (some) grossly overweight so called celebrities trek the mountain for charity some years ago. "If ------------ can do it anyone can do it" being the general consensus! It is also a very expensive mountain to undertake due to the park fees set by the Tanzanian government, non East-African citizens are charged a 'Park Conservation' & 'Camping' fee of well over $100 for each day of their trip ( Tanzania National Parks.) .
A friendly local turned out to see us off.
However! The trip would be heading for the summit by tackling the 'Western Breach', which would involve a scramble up to the crater rim during the early hours due to the risk of rock fall during the day. Sounds exciting, I'm on!
Barry (George Clooney's Dad) brought some Hollywood to the trip at Machame Gate.
Leaving from Machame Gate at 1840m we would trek through the African
forest up to the Machame Hut at 2980m. The trek took us on a good track
rising steadily until the forest turned to Alpine moorland where heather
grew up above 2m tall!
Lord Cocks leads his loyal subjects.
On reaching Machame Hut we saw the extent of our support team for the first time. 3 Guides, 2 Cooks, 21 Porters! Each porter is allowed to carry 15kg + 5kg of personal equipment on Kilimanjaro and this is set by the Tanzanian government, the porters also receive their wages from the government per day rather than per trip as in some other parts of the world. It was only when considering the amount of kit needed for the 6 night trip that it was understandable why our small team needed so many in support - tents for us, tents for the porters, food for 3 meals a day for everyone, cooking equipment, sleeping kit, spare clothing etc. Oh and a portaloo!
Jimmy, who was our head guide for the trip, led the way with some African beats as he introduced all the team to us and we were encouraged to introduce ourselves to the team using the medium of song & dance. You needed to be there!
Rob gets 'involved' with the introductions!
Our assault on Kilimanjaro would see us spending our nights under canvas at each camping area. I was lucky enough to pair up with Lord Martin Cocks of Cocksville who was an inspiration to me with his evening 'pep' talks about how much he was looking forward to each day, as well as encouraging me to continue with my personal quest for mountain education!
We would spend a total of 6 nights under canvas in total, including the evening 'snooze' before summit day and an overnight on descent.
Heading to Shira Hut at 3840m through the cloud.
Lord Cocks in deep thought preparing for his evening 'pep' talk as Barry (Hollywood) looks on.
Kilimanjaro looms over Shira Hut camp
Each day we would wake and make our way to the mess tent where breakfast would consist of millet porridge followed by bread, omelette and sausage or similar, all served with Tanzanian coffee which among the best coffee in the world apparently (would rather have a mug of gravy been a Yorkshireman!). We then pack our kit ready for the walk to the next camp whilst the porters dismantled and packed the camp into their individual loads in minutes!
Porter with 15kg load on his head.
On towards Lava Tower Camp.
Team photo in front of Lava Tower.
Rob can't help himself and climbs Lava Tower to kill some time.
The day before summiting would see us have a short walk from Lave Tower to Arrow Glacier camp and spend most of the day resting in our tents, the wind had grown in strength and the temperatures were less than African at an altitude of 4800m. The camp was located at the foot of the Western Breach and as the sun warmed the ice and rock we could hear a nearby stream grow in strength, this was the reason we would tackle the route in the hours of darkness. As the temperature rise then rocks held by ice further up the Western Breach become unstable and loose, with some tumbling down the face. In January 2006 there was a rock slide on the Western Breach which unfortunately claimed the lives of 3 people and injured other members of the group.
Setting up camp under the Western Breach.
Blister Steve with the Western Breach in the background.
Camp under the Western Breach.
We gathered outside our tents under the stars of the Milky Way at 02:00hrs in a cold & brisk wind. With plenty of insulating layers on and head lamp batteries checked we started off what would be a steep walk and Grade 1 scramble taking us up approx 800m to the crater rim & the Furtwangler Glacier. Moving slowly we made our way upwards, I personally had problem from around 5100 to 5400m having to stop to orally expel my supper a couple of times!
Night scrambling up the Western Breach.
After 4 or so hours we finally reached the crater rim, a very emotional moment after having spent the previous hours feeling like we climbing up using only one lung whilst carrying a grand piano! First light was breaking and we made our way to the Furtwangler Glacier for a photo opportunity and a well earned breather!
'Chilling' at the Furtwangler Glacier.
From the crater it would be just a 300m ascent to the summit up a volcanic scree slope. 'Just' 300m! It was excruciatingly slow after the excursions of the Western Breach and at an altitude of 5600 to the summit at 5895m. There was now less than half the air pressure available to us than at sea level where our lungs are designed to work the best! N.B whilst the air is still made up of the same composition of approx 78% Nitrogen, 20% Oxygen & 2% other stuff(!) because there is less of the atmosphere pushing down on it so the amount of oxygen in each breath reduces the higher you go!
Dawn breaking over the crater & glacier.
Its a lie!
Approaching the summit.
With a mouth full of fruit pastilles we carried on upwards until eventually the summit came into view. With views out over the surrounding mountain peaks, across to Mt Meru and over the cloud which covered everything below 3000m we stood at the summit 'board' and took time for some photo's and to collect ourselves.
Summit!
It seems slightly silly to have spent time doing the acclimatisation route on Mt Meru, 4 days and nights walking and camping and then going through the pain of the final ascent to only spend approximately 10 minutes on the summit, but the risk of hypoxia is a concern and so it was quickly off again and we made our way down to Millennium camp.
Paul, Blister Steve, Vic, Commander Rob & Barry Clooney at the summit.
Lord Cocks poses on descent.
A last night under canvas after a very long 14hr route mainly consisted of a good meal, a wash and the best sleep of the trip so far, 10hrs straight through for myself!
Rising for breakfast on our last morning we had just a 3 hour walk back into the African forest and to Mweka Gate at 1050m, lungs full of lovely oxygen!
Drunk on oxygen with Kilimanjaro in the background.
All smiles at Mweka Gate.
& Barry (George Clooney's Dad) gives us the Hollywood smile!
This Is Africa!
Refueling back at Weru Weru!
As with any extended journey or expedition Kilimanjaro had its high and low points and it is only after the end of the expedition that these could be weighed up. There were far more high points than low and in fact the low points weren't very low, piss wet through on the first of the Yorkshire 3 Peaks comes far lower than at any point in Africa!
Kilimanjaro deserves respect as do all those that undertake the trip to the summit, apart from some of those that do it full of Diamox & get helicopters from the top maybe! :-) Just my opinion x
