Way back in time before the onset of adulthood I enjoyed countless days heading into the hills of Yorkshire with nothing more than a squashed sandwich & youthful sense for adventure!
Despite long past youthful and work commitments keeping me in the city, the sense of adventure and love for the outdoors never left me. After digging my boots out and returning to the hills I attended a number of courses to improve my hill knowledge and skill base, during one of these courses it was suggested I join the Mountain Leader Training scheme and was delighted go on to gain the MOUNTAIN LEADER Award in April 2012.
As well as spending time on the hills and mountains of the UK I have also enjoyed trips to the Nepalese Himalaya, Swiss & French Alps, Mallorca’s Tramuntana, Andorran & French Pyrenees, Morocco’s High Atlas, Tanzania’s Mt Meru & Kilimanjaro, Argentinian & Chilean Patagonia and winter expeditions to Norway’s Hardangervidda.
Since gaining the ML I have also gained the SINGLE PITCH AWARD, INTERNATIONAL MOUNTAIN LEADER AWARD and the WINTER MOUNTAIN LEADER AWARD. I am now enjoying working in a freelance role whilst trying to get out climbing as much as possible.
The end of November saw me travel to Morocco with intention of climbing a few 4000m peaks, including Toubkal, and get my winter 2014/2015 season under way. I would be joining members of the Llanberris Mountain Rescue team and some of their friends as well as an expedition led by my 'mountain mentor' and friend (despite 4 years of unflattoring remarks about my weight!) Rob Johnson of Expedition Guide and Bryn Williams.
Due to a deep 'kink' in the Jet Stream Morocco had experienced exceptional levels of precipitation in the weeks before we travelled which had led to some roads having been washed away in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains and the unfortunate deaths of some people washed away in flood waters, it had also led to approximately 4 metres of snow fall high up in the mountains.
Arriving in Marakech on the Saturday afternoon we were told travelling to Imlil would be impossible that evening as rainfall had again washed part of the route away and so we headed to a riad in Marakach and spent the evening looking around the food market and medina. Travelling up to Ilmlil on Sunday morning damage from the recent weather was obvious though the road had now been repaired and we arrived after a couple of hours, as there had been a further half a metre of snowfall forecast for the mountains during Saturday it was decided that we would spend Sunday night in Ilmlil to give the snowpack time to settle before starting our walk up to the refuge Monday morning.
Monday - leaving Imlil after breakfast we set off to make our way up the mountain track that would take us to 'Refuge Les Mouflons' which would be our base in the mountains for the next week. Rising from Ilmlil at 1740m to the refuge at 3200m we would take the journey slowly to hopefully keep any symptoms of altitude sickness at bay. We found the snow line at around 2200m and the amount of snow on the ground quickly increased until we were following a track which was knee deep at the sides. The path took us under some terrain where there had been obvious avalanche activity with snow pack mainly in the form of 'sun balls' or 'point releases' ( where the sun had warmed rocks which had then led to a warming of the snow pack causing small slides) and we kept some distance apart from other member of the group whilst we passed these areas.
They had had a spot of snow at the refuge!
Tuesday - Myself, Stuart and Mountain Rescue Rob headed up following the gorge that runs through the high valley above the refuge to gain some height for acclimatisation and also to look at the snow pack. We found an area where we thought would be good to dig a snow pit to see if we could find any obvious week layers and dug a snow pit down to ground level some 2.5metres below! We found a top layer some .55m deep of fairly soft but compacted snow followed by a layes .6m deep of harder snow, below this were several layers made up of hard Icy layers and some of weak layers containing large rounded snow crystals.
I then followed this by practicing building an emergency shelter as I will have to do during the Winter Mountain Leader assessment in February next year where a shelter big enough to provide protection from the elements has to be made within 20minutes using only an ice axe, I hope the snow is as soft in the Cairngorms as it is here this week and I have a willing client like Bob to try it for size. This simple scrape to 7minutes.
Imperial Bob gets cosy.
Bit of a snow pit!
Wednesday - rested and acclimatised myself, 'Mountain Rescue Rob' and 'Rock Bottom Stuart' decided to head from the Refuge up the valley to the 'Tizi n Ouagane' col at a height of 3735m if possible. We would put a track in on snowshoes that we could retrace the following day if we were to attempt the summits of 'Ras' and 'Timesguida', this would also give us further benefits in relation to acclimatisation. Heading out at 9am the weather was crisp to say the least though as we continued up the col we soon began to warm up. Taking note of what was happening around us with the weather and snow we continually discussed our route and plan of action. On reaching ground which was steepening beyond the use of snowshoes we switched to crampons and ice axes before ascending up a rocky outcrop in the middle of the ascent to the col after which we found ourselves in deep snow which we all had reservations about. We were on a slope of not much over 20 degrees but the gradient ahead of us was noticbly increasing, after doing a couple of quick snow stability tests which failed easily we decided to forget making the col and return down the slope.
Mountain Rescue Rob and Rock Bottom Stuart battling the wind - I took that pic!
Thursday - with a weather report predicting a further 20cm of fresh snow to fall over night Thursday the desicion was taken to head back to Imlil later that afternoon. A fresh 20cm of snow on top of the snow pack which was starting to consolidate and form a surface crust due to being subject to the strong Moroccan sun through the day and sub zero temperatures overnight could have caused us concern if walking out the following day. We spent the morning in two groups, one looking at and practicing ice axe arrest whilst the other group built a snow shelter. Leaving the refuge at lunch time we descended along the valley following the track through the deep snow and over sections of avalanche debris until we left the snow line at approximately 2350m near the shrine at Sidi Chammharouch and reaching Imlil 4.5hrs later, unfortunately our kit would be arriving the following morning!
Siany practicing ice axe arrest.
Al gets cosy in the snow shelter.
Mountain Rescue Rob with compulsory 'man leg' pose!
Descending back to Imlil
Watch for this pair of characters in the mountains!
Over all another great trip. Despite not making any summits and in fact deciding to retreat from an acclimatisation col I took lots from the week. Summits are great and the main objective of most trips but I am at a stage where I need to be learning and experiencing the variables that can contribute to create avalanche conditions, reading books is fine but some of it actually sinks in when I'm seeing it in real time!
It was pleasure to spend the week with Rob (Expedition Guide), MTA Bryn, 'Imperial' Bob, 'Rock Bottom' Stuart, Ady & Amy, Mountain Rescue Rob & Siany, Rich & Jo, Al, Dan and Steven.
June and I again joined Rob Johnson of Expedition Guide, this time for a trip to Africa with the goal of reaching the summit of Kilimanjaro. Along with Lord Martin Cocks of Cocksville, Vic, Paul, Barry (George Clooney's dad), Andy & Steve we would first summit Mt Meru to help us acclimatise before heading up the 'Western Breach' to the 'roof of Africa' to stand 5895m above sea level and on top of the highest free standing mountain in the world - Kilimanjaro!!
Kilimanjaro stands above the cloud at sunset - seen from Mt Meru.
I was fortunate enough to have received an invitation to spend a few days in Tanzania by my friend Simon Enstone which I gratefully accepted. Simon, who I met whilst on the Mountain Leader training scheme, is teaching at a school near Arusha and was generous enough to introduce me to Africa, as well as take me on safari and explain TIA (This Is Africa!). So it was having sampled a tiny bit of Africa that I waited at Kilimanjaro airport for the rest of the team to arrive and to meet our 'in country' agents, eager for our mountain adventure to begin.
We would spend a comfortable evening & night at Weru Weru Lodge near the town of Moshi before heading into the Arusha National Park to start our acclimatisation climb on Mt Meru.
Mt Meru would be a demanding few days to start our trip seeing us ascend from 1500m to over 4500m, and down again, in less than 60hrs!
Starting the trek through the forest.
Day 1 Leaving Momela Gate we walked through dense green forest as we headed to Miriakamba Hut, which stands at 2500m, where we would spend the night. We would also have our first meals provided by our cooks for the trek so it was thumbs up all round having sat down to a tasty & plentiful 3 course evening meal, the moral and overall success of an expedition or trek can hinge on the standard of food!
Day 2 we continued making our way up, soon leaving the forest below, and out into the bright African sun. We reached Saddle Hut at 3500m where we rested for a couple of hours before myself, Rob, Vic & Paul took a leisurely stroll up to 'Little Meru' accompanied by Jimmy & Ernest of our guiding team. The stroll would take us up an additional 300m above the hut and help with acclimatisation when we dropped back down to sleep in the hut.
Approaching Saddle Hut in the African sun.
Compulsory 'man leg' pose on Little Meru.
On arriving back at the hut we sorted our kit ready for our ascent to Mt Meru summit, which we would be doing during the early hours. We then sat down for our evening meal before heading to bed around 7pm!!
The plan was to sleep until midnight, we would then get up and have some breakfast before leaving the huts to ascend the 1066m to the summit in the darkness.
On the dark ascent to the summit of Mt Meru.
Under the stars of the clearly visible Milky Way we made our way slowly upwards, leaving any sign of vegetation behind as we walked with volcanic rock and scree underfoot. The path to the summit took us to Rhino Point and continued up a tiresome scree slope where it was 3 steps forward and 1 back at times, we then had a few areas of scrambling where a fall could have proved somewhat painful!
After around 4hrs the first light of dawn appeared and we were approaching the summit just in time. Making our way up the final ascent we were treated to sunrise over Kilimanjaro which stood around 70km away on the horizon.
Break of dawn over Kilimanjaro
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George Clooney's dad Barry, Lord Cocks of Cocksville, myself & Vic with the flag of the kingdom of Yorkshire.
Commander Johnson takes tea at the summit.
Sunrise over Kilimanjaro
After a brief stop for photo's and a snack we turned and retraced our steps back down as the warm African sun chased away the chilly night air. Going was easier on the way down with the benefit of light other than that of our head torches.
The clearly visible ash cone of old volcanic action on Meru.
Paul making his way over the volcanic ridge.
Back to Saddle Hut around 08:30hrs we took time for some food before packing our kit up and heading back down to Momela Gate, leaving the volcanic landscape behind and back down through the lush forest. In total our day was an ascent of 1066m followed by a descent of just over 3000m, arriving at the gate at 14:30hrs, making a 14.5hr day, a very good day!!
Lord Cocks of Cocksville makes his way down through the forest.
Commander Johnson leads the way out onto the African plain (where the dangerous animals live!)
N.B Forgive me for the apparent neglect of my Blog, this is not the case as I have been out on mountain adventures gaining material to blog about!
Back in May I made my first, long overdue trip to the Isle of Skye to sample the delights of the iconic Cuillin Ridge where I would be joining Lord Martin Cocks of Cocksville, Gez, Simon 'Roomie I can't sit still' Small, Tim, Russ, Sam and Andy, all under the guidance of mountain professionals Sandy, Huw, Dave and Rob of Expedition Guide.
Rising steeply from sea level to a maximum height of 3255ft/992m the bare, rocky chain of peaks are mainly made up of the igneous volcanic rock Gabbro (good for climbers) along with smaller amounts of Basalt (slippery when wet so not so good!). The dark, moody appearance of the range also leads to it being known as the Black Cuillin. It could also be known as 'Middle Earth' in my opinion.
Day 1 & it was straight in to it as we decided to take advantage of the dry weather and head up on to the ridge to climb the Inaccessible Pinnacle. The 'In Pinn' gained its name as it is a 'fin' of rock which stands at the top of SgùrrDeargand is the only Munro summit which requires climbing techniques & equipment.
My introduction to the Cuillin started with a long and steep walk in, which it seems is generally the way it works in that part of the world.
On reaching the base of the 'In Pinn' myself & Simon 'Roomie' Small attached ourselves to the rope as our leader and 'general mountain goat' Rob Johnson lead the way up. Whilst the scramble up was fairly easy the consequences of a fall would be fairly terminal!! After reaching the top we made use of the fixed gear in place to abseil off.
*On top of the Inaccessible Pinnacle in the mist.
We then headed off in the mist across the ridge to bag the Munro's of 'Sgurr Mhic Choinnich' & Sgurr Alasdair. I think the surrounding mist gave me 'confidence through ignorance' as although I knew the drops either side of the narrow ridge were sheer and of hundreds (if not thousands) of feet, we moved quickly and safely to 'bag' the further 2 Munro's before descending down the 'Stone Chute', a knee and boot wrecking slip & slide down a scree slope!
*Me & 'Roomie' Small on the 'In Pinn'.
The narrow Cuillin Ridge shrowded in mist, there are 2 figures in the mist if you look closely.
Day 2 & we took a boat ride from Elgol to Loch Scavaig for a long scramble up the Dubhs Ridge with a long abseil thrown in to spice things up. We made our way up to the summit of Sgurr Dubh Mor (me carrying the rope all the way as Simon had a 'bit of a run' planned for the weekend and didn't want to be too tired!!) before stopping for a spot of lunch and discussion on the possible consequences for anyone attempting the route if poorly equipped and with poor navigational skills.
We then headed to the summit of Sgurr nan Eag before descending down 1000m to the vehicles at Glenbrittle.
Taking the RIB into Loch Scavaig.
Walking in by Loch Coruisk
*'Smally' has a smile before the abseil (he could smile as he hadn't carried the rope!)
*Abseiling from Sgurr Dubh Beag.
*Almost identical to the embassy(?)
Day 3 & 4 with snow having fallen on the ridge it was decided we would stay low and do some sea cliff & rock climbing, an added bonus for me as this is an area where I need to practice & improve.
We headed to Elgol on Wednesday and Neist Point on Thursday where I had the chance to practice gear selection & placement, as well as setting up anchors and belays. I also had to haul my 'not built for climbing' frame up the the routes too!
Over the 2 days we climbed a number of routes of varying grades and I thoroughly enjoyed it, though hearing the 'whizz & clink' as some of my gear fell out and slid down the rope is something I will have to work on to eradicate from my climbing technique before it becomes a trademark!!
*"Have you got me Roomie!?"
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*Belaying Andy.
Simon 'Roomie' & Rob 'Mountain Goat' chill on the sea cliffs.
That'll be Rob enjoying himself again!
"Oops, that looks a long way down and I'm next!"
The walk back with the Black Cuillin in the back ground.
Expedition Guide video of the trip.
Although though the trip was a 5 day trip I unfortunately had to leave at the end of the 4th day. Considering that the last 2 days of my trip had been spent climbing and not having to make the long walks in and out of a day on the ridge + I missed the last day completely, I can only imagine how tiring 5 consecutive days on the ridge could be. I was still feeling the effects well into the following week!
Some of my kit, especially boots trousers & gloves, came out a very poor 2nd best after tangling with the Black Cuillin.
A place to be enjoyed but very much respected, see you again soon!
